Kinky fashion.

[Mz****]

After decades of not being able to find fetishwear that suits my shape, my style, or my budget, I've finally taken the plunge and ordered a sewing machine, one that is capable of sewing leather should I develop the necessary skills..fingers crossed on that, I've signed up to a few blogs and self help groups to tide me over until I can access classes in my area once lockdown restrictions ease.

I'm hoping some of you may know some tips and tricks that might be useful, or know of online downloadable patterns perhaps, or somewhere that sells kink friendly ones, or teaches how to draft your own, what essentials do I need for my sewing box that I might not be aware of for materials like leather, pvc or latex, any recommendations on fabric suppliers..or anything else I've not mentioned?

All help gratefully received 😊

[Deleted Member]

1 hour ago, MzJax said:

After decades of not being able to find fetishwear that suits my shape, my style, or my budget, I've finally taken the plunge and ordered a sewing machine, one that is capable of sewing leather should I develop the necessary skills..fingers crossed on that, I've signed up to a few blogs and self help groups to tide me over until I can access classes in my area once lockdown restrictions ease.

I'm hoping some of you may know some tips and tricks that might be useful, or know of online downloadable patterns perhaps, or somewhere that sells kink friendly ones, or teaches how to draft your own, what essentials do I need for my sewing box that I might not be aware of for materials like leather, pvc or latex, any recommendations on fabric suppliers..or anything else I've not mentioned?

All help gratefully received 😊

I wish I could offer some advice! I can sew but have never sewed leather etc. Please let me know how you get on as it sounds like a great idea to have affordable kinky clothes xx

[Mz****]

9 minutes ago, sweet***sub said:

I wish I could offer some advice! I can sew but have never sewed leather etc. Please let me know how you get on as it sounds like a great idea to have affordable kinky clothes xx

Any tips, for regular dressmaking I'm also more than grateful for @sweet***sub, I'm almost a novice seamstress its probably shear madness...(see what I did there? 😁) that I'm even attempting this, but I need a project to focus on, something useful and hopefully fun too once I get the hang of it 🤞

[Deleted Member]

Have a nosey on YouTube Jax there's bound to be plenty of tutorials on the subject

[Mz****]

1 minute ago, Pete45 said:

Have a nosey on YouTube Jax there's bound to be plenty of tutorials on the subject

Thanks Pete, I am a much faster learner with visual aids.

[Deleted Member]

6 minutes ago, MzJax said:

Any tips, for regular dressmaking I'm also more than grateful for @sweet***sub, I'm almost a novice seamstress its probably shear madness...(see what I did there? 😁) that I'm even attempting this, but I need a project to focus on, something useful and hopefully fun too once I get the hang of it 🤞

That made me giggle!!! Lots of practice and like Pete said there will be lots of tutorials on YouTube. I’m not a seamstress but can use a sewing machine so willl help wherever I can 😊 great idea to have some projects, it helps my sanity so much. 

[Ja****]

Oooooo! I have no advice but am a never ending fount of kinky ideas. I will happily model meanwear also. 😁

[Mz****]

58 minutes ago, JackReeves said:

Oooooo! I have no advice but am a never ending fount of kinky ideas. I will happily model meanwear also. 😁

You are indeed, I look forward to hearing some new ones now you're inspired 😊 though it may be some time before I need any male models I appreciate your faith in me..thank you @JackReeves.

 

[PixieDust]

Best thing I can recommend for sewing is purchasing a "Folding Pattern Cutting Board".....these are really great and something I use when cutting fabrics or pinning patterns down.  They are made out of thick cardboard and they have measurements down each side of the board.  The best thing about these boards, is that you can pin your fabric to them, to avoid material slipping when cutting.  

I would also suggest purchasing an extension arm to your machine if it did not come with one, as that give you more room for fabric adjustment and movement within the machine whilst sewing.  

You can also purchase specific needles and feet for the machine dependent on what fabric you are sewing with.  The feet in particular allow better movement through the machine, particularly with things like leather, vinyl and pvc.  The quality and type of needle you use will also help immensely.  I would also look for high quality thread over something basic, I find personally the thread sews nicer.

I also couldn't live without my overlocker....... its great for finishing off edges and giving a somewhat professional look.  You can also do some amazing stitching with them as well, especially when using multiple coloured threads.

Youtube definitely has lots of great classes available on there, but also check out your local sewing/fabric stores, a lot of them offer short term classes to get you upto to s***d on different stitching techniques, pattern design and pattern alterations. Some of the local places are also offering online classes during covid restrictions as well.

For fabric, check out "MJTrends" on Etsy, they sell PVC, Faux leather and Spandex and you can purchase by the metre and they have a great colour range.

Hope this helps. 

Edited January 5, 2021 by PixieDust
Additional information

[Deleted Member]

What a great idea mzjax I shall be following this and I hope to see lots of nice things 

[Mz****]

10 hours ago, PixieDust said:

Hope this helps. 

Just enormously 😁, thank you so much for taking the time to write so much useful information, it truly is appreciated.

The board sounds similar to one I use for crafts, its now top of my to get list! I headed over to Etsy before replying to this, it was hard to tear myself away.

There wasn't an extension arm with the machine, but its Singer and a newer model so I shouldn't have too many problems finding one..great tip 😎

I've bought a selection of specialist needles as well as regular ones, I guess remembering to use the right one is important, I've offcuts to practice on, and I'll avoid cheaper threads..I wasn't sure when they tried to sell me the two dozen additional feet what does what, its comes with 5, and as I can't afford to justify the expense of an quality overlocker atm, though that's a goal, I did an overlock foot, they suggested a Teflon coated one for what they called more obscure materials, but reviews say to avoid that and just tape over a regular one or use plastic feet, you've given me a lot to consider. 

We sadly don't have a fabric store, or even a regular haberdashery shop in my town, so I'll be reliant on online stores until the pandemic eases and I can hit the closest city.

Again, @PixieDustthank you 🙏

[Mz****]

3 hours ago, Mrpotter said:

What a great idea mzjax I shall be following this and I hope to see lots of nice things 

Thanks for your support @Mrpotter, me too 🤞

[PixieDust]

13 minutes ago, MzJax said:

Just enormously 😁, thank you so much for taking the time to write so much useful information, it truly is appreciated.

The board sounds similar to one I use for crafts, its now top of my to get list! I headed over to Etsy before replying to this, it was hard to tear myself away.

There wasn't an extension arm with the machine, but its Singer and a newer model so I shouldn't have too many problems finding one..great tip 😎

I've bought a selection of specialist needles as well as regular ones, I guess remembering to use the right one is important, I've offcuts to practice on, and I'll avoid cheaper threads..I wasn't sure when they tried to sell me the two dozen additional feet what does what, its comes with 5, and as I can't afford to justify the expense of an quality overlocker atm, though that's a goal, I did an overlock foot, they suggested a Teflon coated one for what they called more obscure materials, but reviews say to avoid that and just tape over a regular one or use plastic feet, you've given me a lot to consider. 

We sadly don't have a fabric store, or even a regular haberdashery shop in my town, so I'll be reliant on online stores until the pandemic eases and I can hit the closest city.

Again, @PixieDustthank you 🙏

Your very welcome @MzJax

I have thought of couple of other things since I posted. 

Good quality pins is another thing I should of recommended, especially when you are using a fabric that shows marks. The finer the pin, the less likely it is to leave a noticeable mark on the finished piece.

Also, always double check your tension on the machine.......you can have the right needle and foot piece all set up but if the tension is out, your losing the battle before you even start. This includes not only the tension on the machine but also on the bobbin as well.  If the bobbin tension is out, it can pull and loop the stitching. Its great that you have offcuts, as it is definitely a good way to practice getting your tension and stitching size right.  

Another thing I always keep handy is butchers paper, as you can use that for pattern making and tweaking if you need to up or downsize.  You can pick it up relatively cheap or just ask your local butcher for a donation, they are normally pretty good like that.

The one other thing i thought of was some good tailors chalk, you can get it in a variety of colours. I would go for the chalk pieces rather than the marking pencils as I find they work much better and last longer.

Knowing Singer, they should definitely have an extension arm that goes with the machine however you can also pick up cheaper generic versions that are equally as good. 

I would also check out the Singer website as it has lots of really useful tips and examples on there and its free which is even better.   Singer also have a brilliant sewing book available which pretty much shows you how to do everything. Infact Im sure if you have a poke around online you could probably find a second hand copy for next to nothing.  

The final tip I have is to use different scissors for cutting your fabrics and patterns.  Keep one pair purely for fabric use only so that the scissors can maintain a sharp cutting edge.  I have two different colours, just so I don't get them mixed up.  

If you get stuck on anything your always welcome to message me and I can try and help. 

[Phoenyx]

On 1/4/2021 at 3:55 PM, MzJax said:

After decades of not being able to find fetishwear that suits my shape, my style, or my budget, I've finally taken the plunge and ordered a sewing machine, one that is capable of sewing leather should I develop the necessary skills..fingers crossed on that, I've signed up to a few blogs and self help groups to tide me over until I can access classes in my area once lockdown restrictions ease.

I'm hoping some of you may know some tips and tricks that might be useful, or know of online downloadable patterns perhaps, or somewhere that sells kink friendly ones, or teaches how to draft your own, what essentials do I need for my sewing box that I might not be aware of for materials like leather, pvc or latex, any recommendations on fabric suppliers..or anything else I've not mentioned?

Decades ago, I was faced with the same quandary.  I too, took that plunge, and learned to make my own leather clothing.  Samples can be seen in my profile pics.  All of the leather clothing in those pics was made by me (yeah, those gauntlets too).  I know, a Dom doing his own sewing seems a bit contradictory.  But, you know the old axiom: "If you want something done right, you need to do it yourself!"

For leather, the best type of sewing machine is called a "walking foot" machine (sometimes called "even feed").  I have read that some manufacturers are now offering walking-foot attachments for their heavier-duty machines.  I cannot say if these will work as well as a dedicated walking-foot machine.  Just some food for thought.

For cutting leather, latex, or similar material, I have found that a rotary knife works best.  It looks similar to a pizza cutter, but with a razor-sharp edge.  This allows for cutting, without the leather "squirming", the way it does with a simple razor knife.  Rotary cutters can be found at most fabric stores and tannery outlets.  Where you are, a good one will likely go for about 10 quid.

A pattern cutting board works well.  However, a cheaper, more-durable alternative might be a scrap of linoleum from a flooring store.  Such scraps are usually throw-aways, and you could probably get one for free.  The only problem is the fact that linoleum comes in rolls, and it may take some work, to get it to lay flat.  I nailed mine to my work bench, and it is still good-to-go, even after years of heavy use.

Pinning the leather for sewing can be ***ful and frustrating.  A trick that I found, was to use a simple desk stapler.  The leather can be quickly "pinned" with the stapler, and the staples are easily removed, once the pieces are sewn.  Remember to always pin leather on the side of the seam that won't show.  Unlike fabric, pinholes in leather or latex will show forever.  Once sewn, flatten the seams with a small "print roller" (most hardware outlets should have one of these).  I also like to run a bead of "contact cement" under the seam, using a cheap plastic syringe (also available at any hardware store).  That way, the seam stays flat, and has a more professional look.

Leather can be found at "tannery outlets".  There is usually at-least one in every major city.  You will want one that specializes in garment leather.  There are quite a few, online.  However, leather is something best hand-picked, as you would fresh vegetables.  If the staff is friendly, they will be more-than-happy to help you find what you want.  A good tannery outlet should also have all of the heavier zippers, snaps, and/or buckles that you might need.

Patterns though, are a "whole 'nother can of worms".  Most fabric stores have books on pattern making.  However, what works with cloth fabric, often does not work with leather.  Leather is more stubborn, and the results can be baggy and/or uncomfortable.  For that reason,  I developed my own software for generating patterns for leather garments.  All of the clothes in my pics, were made using that software.  That original software was highly experimental, and created only to test the engineering principles---far from "user friendly".  However, the recent resurgence of the DYI movement, as well as advances in technology, has prompted me to start work on a newer, more-usable version.  That work though, is still at-least two-years from completion.

Another possible solution to patterns (if you have someone to help you) is to pin-together a test pattern from cheap, heavy fabric, using your own body as a form.  This is where a sub or slave can really help.  Adjust the pin locations until the design has the proper look and fit.  It is important to remember, that the test garment should fit quite loosely, to compensate for the extra bulk of the leather and lining in the finished work.  Or, wear something heavy under the test garment, to compensate for the bulk.  For example, in testing a jacket pattern, try wearing a sweater under your fabric test garment.  The idea is to create a garment that is form-fitting, without being uncomfortably tight.  It will still have that ***ted-on look, that causes subs to drop to their knees.  Brutally tight leather is best reserved for slave "punishment" garments (ha ha).

It is also important to have a lining with leather.  The rough, back side of the leather tends to cling to skin and clothes---making the garment uncomfortable.  Satin works as a good lining for jackets, coats, and most styles of pants.  Dresses and skirts, however, may require a lighter acetate material.  The heavier satin could ruin the aesthetics of an elegant dress.

Well, I hope that I have been of some help---without stating too much of the obvious.  It is important to experiment, and be prepared for those frustrating and expensive failures.  But, stick with it, as each new attempt is a valuable learning experience.  A DYI leather garment is a very time-consuming experience, and requires an unbelievable amount of patience.  One item could easily take a month or two to complete.  The sewing seems easy, at first.  But, as the garment nears completion, it could feel like wrestling an alligator!  Still, in the end, it will prove to be worth it.

Feel free to PM me at any time, with any help, questions, or advice that you may need.  Yeah, I'm a Dom.  But, I also enjoy sharing what I know, with those of a common interest.  You can trust me to keep it professional.  I truly look forward to seeing some of your work.  Custom-made fetish wear is always a beauty to behold.

As a final humorous note, I once read a fictional BDSM story, about a Domina who made her own leather fetish wear.  In the event of a garment that came-out too small or too tight, she would *** a slave (of the proper size) to wear the item, until it was properly stretched and broken-in.  I will leave it to your imagination, how this was accomplished.

[Mz****]

21 hours ago, PixieDust said:

Your very welcome @MzJax

Also, always double check your tension on the machine.......you can have the right needle and foot piece all set up but if the tension is out, your losing the battle before you even start. This includes not only the tension on the machine but also on the bobbin as well.  If the bobbin tension is out, it can pull and loop the stitching. Its great that you have offcuts, as it is definitely a good way to practice getting your tension and stitching size 

If you get stuck on anything your always welcome to message me and I can try and help. 

Thank you @PixieDust,  you just saved me some time and ***, I have a basket full of stuff including chalk but it looks like a pencil, so I'll swap that out, and the pins I shall double check too..I do have a roll of butchers paper, I bought some for wrapping yeast before freezing it, they sent a huge roll and I've been wondering what else I can do with it, I hate wasting things.

I dont suppose you know the name of the book? I had a quick look but there's rather a lot and most seem to be downloads. 

One last probably stupid question, for now anyway, how do I know when the tension is wrong, will it be obvious?

Edited January 6, 2021 by MzJax
Typo

[Mz****]

17 hours ago, Phoenyx said:

Feel free to PM me at any time, with any help, questions, or advice that you may need.  Yeah, I'm a Dom.  But, I also enjoy sharing what I know, with those of a common interest.  You can trust me to keep it professional.  I truly look forward to seeing some of your work.  Custom-made fetish wear is always a beauty to behold.

I'm always open to advice, particularly when it comes banked from such a wealth of experience. Gender, role and what not make no difference to me, I'm thankful for your willingness to share your skills with me, and anyone else who sees the post.

I can't express how grateful I am, nor how much I appreciate you taking the time to share so much helpful advice, so many useful tips, and your experience. Thank you seems inadequate..but it's all I have..thank you @Phoenyx.

I wonder, being as I don't have anyone who could assist while lockdowns in place, if an adjustable tailors dummy, or even a regular one padded out to my own shape, with the extra layer you recommend, would suffice for draping?

Ps Those Gauntlets are gorgeous..something to aspire towards making for sure.